時尚雙語:八種問題頭髮的保養

We tend to regard hair only as a reflection of our personal style, but as a living, growing part of our body, it's also tied in to our physiology. "Hair reflects internal changes--things like sickness, nutrition and stress," says dermatologist Paradi Mirmirani, M.D., a faculty member of the American Academy of Dermatology. There are three parts to your hair: the hair shaft (the fiber), the hair bulb (the root) and the hair cycle (the period of rest and regeneration). Most problems are related to one of these three things, says Mirmirani.

我們習慣於把頭髮僅僅當作個人風格的一種反映，但是作爲我們身體的一個不斷生長的部分，頭髮與我們的生理系統息息相關。美國皮膚學會教員、皮膚科醫學博士馬諾莫尼表示：“頭髮可以反映出身體內部的變化——比如疾病、營養和壓力。” 我們的頭髮包含三個部分：毛幹(纖維)，毛球(根部)和毛髮週期(休息和再生的週期)。馬諾莫尼表示，大多數的頭髮問題都與其中的某個部分相關。

1. Issue: Excessive hair shedding 脫髮嚴重

Each individual strand of hair has its own cycle, growing for six to eight years, resting for a few months, and then shedding. "About 10 percent of your hair is shedding at any one given time," Mirmirani says, pointing out that many things can interrupt the cycle and cause more hairs to shed earlier, including stress, fever, weight loss or low iron levels. If you're noticing more shedding than usual, examine your lifestyle to see what might have changed or consult your dermatologist for tests.

每根頭髮都有它自己的生長週期，生長6-8年後，停止生長几個月，然後脫落。馬諾莫尼說：“百分之十左右的頭髮會在任何一個特定的時間脫落。”她指出，壓力、發燒、體重減輕或缺鐵等因素都會打斷頭髮的生長週期，並使更多的頭髮提早脫落。如果你發現頭髮脫落比平時更多，檢查一下自己的生活方式，看看發生了什麼改變或者諮詢一下皮膚科醫生。

2. Issue: Hair that is dry and has lost its luster 頭髮乾燥並失去光澤

"Hair becomes dry when the cuticle starts to break down and the inner fiber is exposed," Dr. Mirmirani says. Excessive heat can cause this--especially heat applied to wet hair. She recommends air-drying your hair partially before blow drying, and using a daily conditioner. Remember that hair fiber with color is more prone to damage, so be extra cautious if you color-treat your hair.

馬諾莫尼醫生說：“當頭發角質層開始破壞，內部纖維暴露的時候，頭髮就會變得乾燥。”過度加熱將導致這種情況發生，尤其是對溼發加熱。她建議在用電吹風吹乾頭髮之前，先採用自然風乾，並且使用日常護髮素。請記住，毛纖維的顏色更容易損壞，所以染髮的時候要格外小心。

3. Issue: Brittle or easily breaking hair 頭髮變脆容易斷裂

Some hairstyles can actually affect the health of your hair's bulb, Dr. Mirmirani says. She sees this a lot with hair extensions or ponytails pulled too tight, day after day. "Think of it this way, if you keep pulling on the bulb of a plant, eventually, you can damage it," she says. Take it easy when you're pulling your hair back, and don't brush your hair vigorously when wet. Use a wide-tooth comb and comb through gently. As for Marsha Brady's 100 strokes a day for shine? Not so much, Mirmirani says. The less brushing, the better.

馬諾莫尼醫生指出，有些髮型實際上會影響到你發球的健康。她看到許多人日復一日地拉伸頭髮或者把馬尾綁得太緊。她說：“想想看，如果你一直拉植物的根部，那麼植物最終將被損壞。”向後拉頭髮的時候手要放鬆，頭髮溼的時候不要用力地梳頭髮，使用寬齒梳子輕輕地梳。效仿瑪莎·布雷迪爲了頭髮亮澤，一天梳頭100次？馬諾莫尼醫生說這樣是不對的。梳得越少越好。

4. Issue: Split ends 頭髮末梢分叉

Split, or "dead" ends are the result of damaged or weathered hair. "The hair splays apart because the outer layer (or cuticle) of the hair shaft has worn away," Dr. Mirmirani says. But the good news is, you can snip them right off, and immediately your hair will look healthier. Another trick is to keep your ends well-conditioned. Remember there is a difference between the function of cleansing and conditioning: Shampoo is for your scalp, and conditioner is for the actual hair fibers.

分叉或死亡的頭髮末梢是頭髮受損或風乾造成的。馬諾莫尼醫生說：“頭髮分叉是因爲毛乾的表層(或角質層)已經損壞。”但是好的一面是，你可以立即剪掉它，然後你的頭髮立刻看起來更加健康。另一個竅門是妥善調理你的髮梢。記住清洗和調理的功能是不同的：洗髮水是針對你的頭皮，而護法素實際是針對頭髮纖維。

5. Issue: Gray hair 白髮

The unavoidable truth is that gray hair is genetic, and aside from coloring, you're stuck with it. Most people only have a handful of hair cycles (remember, a cycle is 6 - 8 years) where the pigment-producing cells that surround the follicle and transfer pigment are working at their best. The process just gets . . . tired. Dr. Mirmirani can't confirm the old wives' tales that tell you if you yank one gray hair, five more will sprout up. However, once a fiber is gray--even if you pluck it--it will more than likely grow back in gray again.

你應該堅信，除了染色外，白髮是遺傳的，這是不可避免的事實。大多數人的頭髮週期不長(記住，一個週期是6 -8年)，此時色素細胞包圍毛囊，色素的產生處於最佳狀態。然後過程變得......疲勞。馬諾莫尼醫生不能確認老婦人講的如果你拔一根白髮，五根將會長出來的傳言。然而，一旦頭髮纖維變白，即使你拔掉頭髮，長出來的很可能還是白頭髮。

6. Issue: Dandruff 頭皮屑

Dandruff can be hereditary, but it's still a mystery what causes the flaky stuff. Daily shampooing is your first line of defense, but if the itchiness and flakes persist, try an anti-dandruff product. Dr. Mirmirani cautions sparing use of these products, however, because they are very harsh to your hair fiber. Try alternating the anti-dandruff product with regular shampoo until the dandruff clears up, and then switch back to your regular shampoo.

頭皮屑可以遺傳，但什麼原因導致了片狀東西的產生還是一個謎。每天洗頭是你的第一道防線，但是如果發癢且頭屑一直存在的話，就去試試去屑的產品。但是，馬諾莫尼告誡大家要謹慎地使用這些產品，因爲它們對你的頭髮纖維刺激性很大。用去屑產品替代常規洗髮水，一旦頭皮屑清除，就換回常規洗髮水。

7. Issue: An unexpected bald patch of hair 意想不到的禿頂

You may have Alopecia Areata, which occurs when your immune system starts attacking the hair bulbs. It doesn't destroy it, but the bulb won't start to grow again until the attack is called off. According to the National Alopecia Areata Foundation, it affects five million people in the U.S. "It could be stress or it could be environmental factors -- we really don't know," Dr. Mirmirani says. It can happen one time or recur with some frequency. If you find a sudden bald spot, see your dermatologist.

當免疫系統開始攻擊毛球，你可能出現禿髮現象。免疫系統並沒有摧毀它，但是毛球在攻擊停止之前不會再生長了。根據全國禿髮基金會的數據顯示，禿髮影響到在美國的500萬人。馬諾莫尼醫生說：“至今我們不知道確切的原因，這可能是壓力或者環境因素造成的。”禿髮可能發生一次也可能以一定的頻率發生。頭髮還能變黑因爲這不是永久性的損壞。如果發現突然性的禿髮，請去找皮膚科醫生。

8. Issue: Thicker hair than you've ever had before. 頭髮比以前更密

Either you're just super lucky, or you're about to have a baby. Sure, the hormones of pregnancy can make you lose your lunch, but they are also the cause behind the thick, lustrous hair you'll probably notice if you're expecting. When you're pregnant, your hair stays in a high state of hair growth, with only minimal hair loss. Enjoy it while it lasts!

要麼你只是超級幸運，或者你即將有一個孩子。當然，孕激素使你對午餐失去胃口，但是你可能注意到它們也是你頭髮變得濃密有光澤的原因。當你懷孕後，你的頭髮會保持高增長的狀態，只有很少的頭髮會脫落。享受這段頭髮持續高增長的時光吧！